It’s that period of the year, when the dawn commences to the divine chants of Thirupaavai! It’s the beautiful month of Margazhi that has already dawned and is waiting to shower bounties on the beloved!
Facade of the Andal Temple at Srivilliputhur
Margazhi is famous for the 30 beautiful stanzas collectively called Thirupaavai, composed by Kothai, the wonder child born on the day, when the Pooram star shone!
She started as ‘Margazhi thingal..’ beginning to define the essence of the month, in the 1st stanza and goes ahead to ‘Vaiyathu Vaazhveergal..’ elaborating the procedure to celebrate and worship the divine in the 2nd stanza and praises the conquerer ‘Ongi Ulagalandha Uthaman..’ in the 3rd one
It’s 3 days since the dawn of Margazhi and it’s wonderful listening to the poetic lines!
PhoBlost i.e., Photo-Blog-Post is a series of posts with pictures, taken by me, pertaining to a topic, place, or event.
Gangaikondacholapuram
Gangaikondacholapuram is a little town across the Kollidam river, in Tamil Nadu, famous for the Brihadeeshwarar Temple, built by the great Chola Emperor, Rajendra Chola. The temple, almost close to 1000 years, is a marvel, and a smaller version of the grander Brihadeeshwarar Temple at Thanjavur, built by Rajendra Chola’s father, Rajaraja Chola. The temple at Gangaikondacholapuram, was built after the successful expedition of Rajendra Chola to the northern parts of India. The town literally translates to Gangai-konda-Chola-puram (Town of the Chola, who conquered Ganga – refererring to the river Ganga).
The temple is a an architectural wonder and literally poetry in stone. No amount of words can do justice to the beauty of the temple! It’s a co incidence, to choose to post about the temple, on Aadi Thiruvadhirai (the birthday of Rajendra Chola – Thiruvadirai star occurring in the Tamil month of Aadi)
Every ‘soul’ that owes its existence on this earth, would yearn to wander i.e, roam around, at times, and soujourn i.e, stay calm, at times. The definition of soul, is at times, beyond what can be comprehended by our mind. One such beautiful soul, is the river Cauvery, also spelled as Kaveri, who has captivated many other souls, by her grace and bounty.
This blog post, is more of a photo blog, travelling along the river Kaveri, from its source at Talakaveri to its ultimate destination, the great Bay of Bengal.
I have had the opportunity to visit many significant spots along the river, and capture some beautiful moments, which I wish to post here!
The origin of Kaveri, Talakaveri at Kodagu, Karnataka. The river starts as a small spring here, along the Brahmagiri hills, which are a part of the mighty Western Ghats. Seen here is the arch of the Talakaveri temple.
The spring, overflows into a small pond, which is enclosed by the graceful temple!
The plaque, at the sacred confluence, at Bhagamandala, Kodagu says it all
A beautiful scenery, again at Kodagu.
Kodagu, again!
One beautiful fine evening..Kodagu!
The mighty Krishna Raja Sagara Dam along the river, at Mandya District.
The Goddess Kaveri, blessing by her bounty, with the mighty KRS dam in the background!
Gushing through!
Flanked by nature!
The mighty, more than 1000 year old Kallanai, or Grand Anaicut across the raging river, over the plains at Tiruchirapalli! This ancient wonder, is still in use and is a major water regularotyr system across the river, in Tamil Nadu. The river splits into two major distributaries, Kollidam, the northern channel and Kaveri, the southern channel which retains its original name. There are also very other streams which split from here, spreading fertility all across the delta districts.
Another view of the Kallanai.
Frothy water, gushing out of the slucies at Kallanai!
A soothing sunset, over the wide Kollidam, at the border of Chidambaram and Nagapattinam districts..
Kollidam, again!
The southern Kaveri, meandering near Swamimalai, near Kumbakonam.
A small check dam across the Kaveri at a place Mappadugai, in Mayiladuthurai.
The green canopy, over the gentle currents, in Mayiladuthurai!
Flowing through the heart of Mayiladuthurai! (This pic was taken in July 2018)
The same in August 2019
At the same location, in June 2020!
The graceful Nandi mandapam, at the centre of the river, in Mayiladuthurai. The place is the famed Thulakattam, locally called as Lagadam, where the annual festival dedicated to Goddess Kaveris is celebrated for the month, during the Aipasi Tamil month (mid October – mid November)
The many temples across the bank, in Mayiladuthurai!
The ancient, grand mandapam, across the river bank in Thulakattam.
The elephant of Mayuranathar Temple, at Mayiladuthurai, enjoying its time, chiling out at the river!
Thulakattam, on a festive night!
The northern Kollidam, forms a great mangrove forest, at its confluence with the Bay of Bengal!
The erstwhile grand capital of the Chola Kingdom, Thanjavur is an important trade and cultural hub of Tamil Nadu. With the river Kaveri flowing through the heart of it, surrounded by lush green paddy fields, doted by many temples, Thanjavur has so much to offer!
The most prominent, iconic identity of Thanjavur is the grand Brihadeeshwara Temple. This temple was constructed by Raja Raja Chola, the most illustrious among the Chola Dynasty. The temple, which is a magnificent and beautiful granite structure, is dedicated to Lord Shiva, as Brihadeeshwarar.
Here I go, with the pictorial description of the temple, the grandness of which, cannot be justified with any mere words!
The entrance tower – Gopuram of the temple, basked in the sun
The gigantic guard – Dwarapalaka, showing us the way to the Lord, or is he signifying the greatness of the One inside, by raising his arm?!
Yazhi, a mythical creature, sculpted on one of the pillars
Silhouette of the grand temple
The metal flag mast
The beautifully carved stone spout, that guides the ritualistic ablution offerings – Abisheka, from the inner sanctum
Entering into the holy sanctum
A majestic view of the grand tower, over the sanctum
The granite tower over the sanctum, in all its splendor!
One of the several stone carvings, that narrate an epic, in their own language!
A smaller shrine within the complex
Nandi, the guard and mount of the Lord, observes in silence!
Udaiyar Sri Raja Raja..as found on a stone edict, within the temple
A detailed plan of the temple, placed within the premises
The grandness of the temple can be realized, only by paying a visit and respect to the vision and labor of the several hands, that made this wonder, stand the test of time, over a millennium, and going strong!
More about Thanjavur, coming up in the following post.
Our next destination, in the pilgrimage of Temple Tales would be Chidambaram. Being quite famous, Chidambaram doesn’t need any specific introduction at all!
The Thillai Nataraja Temple situated here, is one of the holiest shrines in Shaivite tradition. The generic term kovil (meaning temple) refers to this temple, in Shaivite tradition. Such is the importance and reverence attributed to this divine destination!
This temple, where Lord Vishnu resides as Govindaraja, is equally celebrated in the Vaishnavite tradition, with this place also referred to as Thiruchitrakoodam.
The mighty Kollidam, as viewed while approaching Chidambaram
Chidambaram is an ancient town, situated on the northern bank of the mighty Kollidam river, which is a tributary of the river Kaveri.
This place is said to have been covered with Thillai (a variety of mangrove) trees, from which the name, Thillai Nataraja is derived.
The Thillai Nataraja Temple complex, is one of the largest temple complex in the world! The main shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva, in his dancing form, Nataraja. Adjacent to this shrine, is that of Lord Vishnu, as Govindaraja. Goddess Parvathi is present here as Shivakamasundari, with a huge dedicated shrine. There are several other shrines within the temple complex for various other deities, and several mandapams (processional halls) where the several rituals are conducted.
The way leading to the Temple
Lord Shiva is worshiped here as the Lord of the Nether, among the Panchabootha (Five Elements of Nature – Earth, Fire, Water, Air, Nether) Shiva Temples. Attributing to this reason, there are vast open spaces in the temple complex.
Plaque of Lord Nataraja and Shivakamasundari
The sanctum shrines of Nataraja and Govindaraja are constructed in the way of a high rise stage. Hence we are blessed with the vision of the Lordships from a distance. This set up is a unique beauty of this temple.
Paintings on the roof of the temple
Speaking about the most important feature of this temple, there is an empty space next to Lord Nataraja in His sanctum. This space is referred to as Chidambara Ragasiyam (Secret of Chidambaram) As mentioned earlier, Shiva is worshiped as the Nether Lord in this shrine, and hence he is represented in this nether form.
Is it the Lord, who is present in every form, in our vision and apart? Or is it none, whom we refer to as God, present in the sanctum of the grandest of shrines? What do we see? What do we unsee? Whom do we see or unsee?………
The Chidambara Ragasiyam is quite elusive, which makes us rise more questions, that ultimately lead us to the answers, even for the questions unasked! No wonder, Chidambaram gets its name from the term Chit-Ambalam (Hall of Consciousness)
The enormous Sivaganga pond within the temple premises
Resting over the strong stone pillars that support the equally strong columns, and pondering over the thoughts, take us to a trance, that cannot be described by words!
Sculpture of Nandi, the mount of Shiva, overlooking the pond
A few kilometers away from Chidambaram, is the mangrove forest of Pichavaram. This is the place, where the mighty Kollidam river pours into the Bay of Bengal. The mouth of the river is interspersed by several sand bars, with a dense mangrove forest, which is one of the largest mangrove sanctuary in the world. The sojourn at Pichavaram to be continued in the next post.
In continuation of the previous post about Mayiladuthurai, here is the next post on Thiruvilandhur, another famous neighborhood within the town limits of Mayiladuthurai, where the Parimala Ranganathar Temple is situated.
Thiruvilandur, also known as Thiruindhalur, is a Diyva Desam (Temple/Holy Places, glorified in the works of Alwars) Lord Vishnu resides, in the form of Parimala Ranganathar.
Lofty Gopuram (Temple Entrance Tower) of Parimala Ranganathar Temple
Gently resting on the five hooded serpent Adisesha, flanked by Sridevi and Sri Boodevi, worshiped by Lord Brahma, with Surya and Chandra, Kaveri and Ganga, the Lord smiles calmly, within the rectangular sanctum, illuminated by the ghee lamps, besieged in the aroma of fresh Tulasi leaves!
As per the legends, the moon is said to have been cursed to lose his shine, and was relieved of the curse and regained his splendor, by performing penance and worshiping the Lord at Thiruvilandur.
The uniqueness of this temple, is the presence of Kaveri and Ganga, personified as Goddesses, present within the sanctum, worshiping Lord Parimala Ranganathar.
The temple is quite spacious, with several beautifully carved stone pillars. The temple pond, abounded by fishes, is situated right opposite to the temple.
The temple pond
This temple is said to be the Antya or Tail end of the Ranganathar Temples situated along the banks of the river Kaveri, over its course. The Adi or beginning being Ranganatha Temple at Srirangapatna near Mysore, followed by Ranganatha Temple at Shivasamudra, then the humongous Ranganathar Temple at Srirangam, the Sarangapani Temple at Kumbakonam being other four Ranganatha Temples, in order.
The temple has a calm atmosphere, intercepted by the occasional chants of the devotees and recitals of the priests. Several festivals are celebrated in the temple, throughout the year. It is no exaggeration, to mention this little neighborhood as a fragment of Vaikunta on earth!
Continuing from my previous posts, about the trip to Delhi, I start another series of posts – Temple Tales. Right now, i’m based at Mayiladuthurai, a vibrant town in the heart of Tamil Nadu. Mayiladuthurai is a temple town, with many temples, big and small abounding the neighborhood. It is also the base for visiting the various other popular temples, temple-circuit of Tamil Nadu.
Mayiladuthurai
Mayiladuthurai, which was earlier known as Mayavaram, Mayuram, is a vibrant town, situated on the banks of the river Kaveri. The place derives its name from Mayuranathar Temple, which is the largest of the many temples in Mayavaram.
Mayuranathar Temple Gopuram (Entrance Tower) flanked by the moon!
Mayuranathar Temple is an ancient one, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Legend has it that, Parvathi in the form of a Peahen, worshiped Shiva. Hence, the Lord gets the name Mayura – Nathar (Peafowl – Lord). Historically it also mentioned that Mayavaram was abounded by peafowls.
Historically, the huge temple complex was built, re-built by the Chozha kings. And currently, it is administered by Dharumapura Adheenam, a Saivite monastic institution. The temple is situated about a kilometer to the south of the river Kaveri.
River Kaveri!
The temple is surrounded by North Madavilagam, South Madavilagam, Mela Veedhi (West Street) and Keela Veedhi (East Street), on the four sides, on each direction, as indicated by the names. The names of the streets, were found quite captivating. Usually temples have mada veedhis around them, as I had known, and these names were new to me!
The pond, within the temple premises.
Another enchanting view of Mayuranathar Temple!
Majestic Kolu on display, in Mayuranathar Temple, during Navaratri 2018
A painting on the roof of the Temple
The temple elephant
The temple elephant, bathing joyfully in the Kaveri!
Mayiladuthurai is also a bustling trade hub. There are several shops selling a variety of products. Owning to the temple circuit, there is huge inflow of pilgrims, and other tourists to this place, throughout the year.
A crowded street of Mayiladuthurai, on the eve of Deepavali
The tales of this beautiful town, is to be continued, in the next post too.
Continuing from my previous posts, about the trip to Delhi, I start another series of posts – Temple Tales. Right now, i’m based at Mayiladuthurai, a vibrant town in the heart of Tamil Nadu. Mayiladuthurai is a temple town, with many temples, big and small abounding the neighborhood. It is also the base for visiting the various other popular temples, temple-circuit of Tamil Nadu.
Words & Lines 